Girona: A Cycling City Built On A Legacy

April 27, 2011

I hope you all had an excellent long weekend and enjoyed a few good rides in this beautiful weather that nearly made up for our summer. I managed to get enough rides in to put me in the doghouse with Mrs. CT until the weekend.

Today I'm pleased to introduce a guest writer who will be contributing to CyclingTips regularly. His name is Les Clarke. Les has been covering bike racing and the people involved since 2004.  A couple of trips to the Tour and several brief cycling affairs with Italy later, he now finds himself following his passion to live and work in Girona, Spain with his partner, Chloe Hosking (check out her blog here).

While he races when back home in Australia, he'll be content to keep the old guys in Spain off his wheel when he's riding around the roads of Spain. In his first few weeks of living in Girona, Les has painted a good picture of the vibe that surrounds this beautiful city.

Girona: A cycling city built on a legacy

By Les Clarke

As is the case for many cycling fans, it all started with Lance. The locals remind you of it, the other pros living here remind you of it and there’s an inescapable presence of the man, who for many, is the greatest cyclist ever.

In the Spanish city of Girona, Lance is regarded as one of the locals, a man who began a revolution that saw many of the world’s premier English-speaking professional cyclists move to the place that lies about an hour north of Barcelona, in the ‘nation’ of Catalunya.

My new neighbour, an old guy named Jaome who handed me a beer as a lunchtime accompaniment on our second meeting, was quick to point out that Armstrong lived close to where I find myself living with my girlfriend, Chloe.

And Xavi, the slightly rotund guy at the surf shop from which I recently bought some Adidas sneakers – and who professes to know very little about road cycling (his mates ride downhill, apparently) – even told me that Lance lived here early in our first conversation.

I’m starting to see a pattern here…

It’s quite fitting then, that my first proper ride here in Girona was on a circuit known as ‘the Armstrong loop’, taking in the Els Angels and ‘Hincapie’ climbs, a 58km round trip that’s a good starter for someone learning the ropes in the city.

The latter of those two ascents is named after another of the city’s pro cycling mainstays, George Hincapie, who now-famously uses the climb to test his form ahead of the Tour de France, much like the legend of Armstrong’s Col de la Madone ‘patronage’ before the race he made his own for seven years.

It’s not a tough climb (if I can do it and say that, it must be a like a korma curry rather than a vindaloo) but there’s a sense of being a part of something special, sharing the roads that some of the pioneers of the sport in the English-speaking world used when their mates were still in France, Belgium or Holland.

That’s the prominent sentiment amongst the professionals living in Girona; they’re part of a community – it’s reflected in Sunday afternoons watching Paris-Roubaix or Amstel Gold Race in the Irish pub where the staff speak both Catalan and English. It can be seen in the sponge and chocolate cakes Team Sky rider and my new neighbour Chris ‘CJ’ Sutton makes before inviting RadioShack’s young kiwi Jesse Sergent and girlfriend Amber around to his apartment to consume with gusto.

In fact, Molt gust (‘very happy’ in Catalan), could well sum up the general vibe in this city of about 110,000. And the aforementioned sense of community isn’t mutually exclusive; the locals are entrenched in the Catalan community, which is fiercely proud of its heritage, including a separate language – think a mix of Castillan Spanish and French as its located near the French border – and its main football team, which of course is FC Barcelona.

I was lucky enough to arrive in Girona the week before ‘El Clasico’, the showdown between bitter rivals FC Barcelona and Real Madrid, a contemptuous relationship that stretches back further than any spat between Armstrong and Landis or the UCI and grand tour organisers… But as a spectacle it always promises plenty.

It didn’t deliver much more than a few scuffles between players and a 1-1 draw, so the following afternoon’s Amstel Gold Race – and in particular the thrilling final 20km after the Eyserbosweg before Philippe Gilbert’s stunning finishing kick on the Cauberg – made up for my disappointment the previous night when Messi and co couldn’t bring home the bacon.

Aussies CJ Sutton and Garmin-Cervélo rider Alexis Rhodes, her ‘teammate’ Dan Martin, Christian Meier and a few other pros watched the race over an ale or two (or maybe I was the only one drinking), with Martin getting a glimpse of his competition for the following Wednesday’s Flèche Wallonne, to which he would travel the next day.

With the likes of Greg Henderson, Matt Wilson, Bradley Wiggins and Brett Lancaster calling Girona home, it doesn’t take long to realise that the city has quickly built upon the foundation that Armstrong and Hincapie built; while their legacy is honoured by the new locals it’s now firmly established as the place to be for English-speaking pro riders.

Although it may seem like the place is overrun by Anglophones intent on enjoying some fantastic training loops and siestas, it’s not just those who parlar Inglés who ride a bike for a living and call Girona home.

Movistar Team’s Xavier Tondo is just one of the Spanish armada that lives here while there are myriad Continental team riders who kick around the roads, resplendent in pro kit that’s unrecognizable but pretty ‘bling’ nevertheless.




SIMILAR ENTRIES

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  • Kev

    Definitely a place to visit, ride and possibly live one day. Great story, great photo. Well done. Looking forward to more from Les.

  • http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=645177252 André Betz

    Welcome aboard, looking forward to your reports!

  • jeff n

    LANCE!

  • http://www.cyclingTipsBlog.com cyclingTips

    I was lucky enough to visit Girona for a few days in 2004. I remember my first day there I saw George Hincapie and he gave me the subtle “nod and wave” to me as we rode past one another. A day I’ll never forget. It only took a couple rides and a walk around the Old City to realise why it’s the perfect place for a cyclist to live.

  • http://www.chromaticdramatic.com/ Chromatic Dramatic

    Cool… I’d like a few more articles like this… I’d especially like something on Calpe, and why a lot of road teams base themselves out of there for training camps (main interest is because many moons ago I was staying in the same hotel that the Festina team were in).

  • Anonymous

    Noice….

  • Notso Swift

    Les use to write for Ride, didn’t he?
    Especially rembering him doing the historical peices (both bikes and races)
    We will be in Europe next winter (and I will be getting my new bike :-) ) and we are already planning to go to Girnoa as it is only 5 hours from my uncle in France and it is famous for its cycling culture (and there are dedicated “Cycling traning” hotels that rent suitable bikes for the other half)

  • Gitmo

    Stopped reading at ‘greatest cyclist ever” in the first sentence. I’m sure Girona is a nice place though.

  • http://www.cyclingTipsBlog.com cyclingTips

    “for many…”

    I can already see that Lance Armstrong’s name should be added to Godwin’s Law.

  • nick3

    excerpt from chloehosking.blogspot.com that I enjoyed reading

    > Favourite cyclist of all time?

    >Jens Voigt for sure. It’s always the man behind the guy that wins, but you see an interview with him and he’s just the funniest, most good humoured guy out there. Such a good attitude also- I once heard a story about him, it was terrible weather and everyone was like ‘we’ll this sucks’ but Jens was like ‘this is fantastic, half the field has already lost the race’. The glass is always half-full.

  • Cheerup

    why do so many people think its cool to hate Lance? It appears that the more people think they know about cycling, the more the dislike him. There is no questioning his achievements and what he has done for cycling.

    Or maybe there is just too many senile masters in our sport?

  • Cheerup

    why do so many people think its cool to hate Lance? It appears that the more people think they know about cycling, the more the dislike him. There is no questioning his achievements and what he has done for cycling.

    Or maybe there is just too many senile masters in our sport?

  • jules

    yes, let’s follow the example of the Spanish Inquisition cycling forums in which the entire pro peloton, except David Moncoutie, are considered to be confirmed dopers and where praise for any of them is met with widespread derision. sounds like fun.

  • http://www.BrandWorld.com.au/ Priestie

    Girona sounds like a lovely place, thanks for sharing Les look forward to reading more. I understand there is a small but interesting museum of cycling memoribilia in Girona also.

  • Abdu Whereareyou

    At risk of getting the discussion back to the original story, nice piece Les. I had to grit my teeth in sheer jealousy though when I read that you’re actually living there and cycling those roads. Nice one.

    Had a feeling Richie P lived there for a while too?

  • Anonymous

    Would be interesting to put together a list of pros who live there (in the least stalkerish way possible)

    I understand Lucca in Italy is also quite popular as a home away from home.

    Plus Monaco if you can actually find anywhere there to live… (Boonen, Porte, Gilbert, Clarke, O’Grady)

  • JC

    Most pro sportsmen get all their mail sent to Monaco but that’s about all. Just ask Boris Becker.

  • HOLLYWOOD

    Becuase he’s a cheat who hasn’t been caught YET. Plus he is an arrogant bully. I cant wait until he get’s caught and all the lies are exposed.

  • Smauel

    How did you go from reading that someone else disagrees with Lance being called the Goat, to stating that ‘so many people think it’s cool to hate lance’?! Even if people dislike (‘hate’ in your words) Lance, how does being cool come into the equation?

    Anybody ever tell you that maybe you’re the one with the problem…

  • jules

    i used to think the same thing in road races when it started bucketing down: “oh look, Johnno the girl’s blouse is pulling out due to a bit of rain. ooohhh… a bit of wain is too much fow you is it?!” (good ‘cos i can’t beat you otherwise)

  • jules

    i used to think the same thing in road races when it started bucketing down: “oh look, Johnno the girl’s blouse is pulling out due to a bit of rain. ooohhh… a bit of wain is too much fow you is it?!” (good ‘cos i can’t beat you otherwise)

  • jules

    i think they all live in the same 1 br apartment. i can’t think of why they’re all so interested in having an address in monaco.. must be the prestige :)

  • Mick

    Godwin’s Law? Hyperbolic observation? Twenty bucks no-one mentions anything about the ,’Germans’ here.

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  • pmark1bike

    Mention Lance and off we go again!

  • pmark1bike

    And Godwin is from Texas!!

  • Anonymous

    Was thinking about moving to Girona last week, when work was particularly demanding. Great to read about it.

    I have to put in my two cents worth about Lance, of whom I am no great fan these days. Nonetheless, I read his biography, and watched his wins, which were on local TV largely because of his presence. He was the portal through which I got access to Jens Voight, Stuart O’Grady, Philippe Gilbert, and many more, and for that I thank him. Whether he is a nice bloke or not, or indeed, whether or not he or the rest of the peleton doped, makes no difference to the fact that I appreciate the trailblazing role he played in opening up professional cycling to the English speaking world. One can speculate what would have happened if Hijo de Rudicio won the Tour all those times instead- would we still be watching highlights for half an hour and having to stream Belgian coverage of the classics?

  • OmniVelo

    I’m lucky enough to be living in Barcelona at the moment and did a little road trip through the north of Catalunya over Easter. I literally took that exact same photo in Girona. Driving the roads from Girona to Figeres to Roses to Cadaques I was drooling the whole time and green with envy of the cyclists that we passed. Just epic cycling territory. And Girona itself is a gorgeous town. Anyone else think it looks like Florence?

  • gm

    I will create a diversion…….. “Beach road, Beach road”

  • pmark1bike

    Or to get more responses, cars verses bikes!

  • gm

    Bikes should be registered, your turn.

  • puddle jumper

    I have twice ridden alongside Lance, and he has been in my brother’s bike shop from time to time, and no one who has met him had a negative impression. Recently, he led a Livestrong ride for charity, and rode with the mayor of L.A. at CycloVia, which promotes cycling by closing down major streets to cars for a day. In spite of how you feel about his competitive career and the clouds surrounding it, he has done more for cycling in the past 20 years than anyone else I can think of. He’s no saint, but who is?

    Then again, two years ago DiLuca waved at me once along a climb, and I assumed he must be an okay guy, too.

  • Cheerup

    Thats like saying every cyclist is a cheat who hasn’t been caught YET – innocent until proven guilty my friend. Arrogant? he is American, they are all arrogant until you get to know them. Bully? maybe, but so was Cipollini and he is THE MAN. When he is caught, I will eat my words, until then, pipe down chache

  • http://profiles.google.com/timpaulsutton Fit Equipment.co.uk

    Looks stunning

  • NGS

    I think it has something to do with TAX, or a lack of it…

  • pinarello413

    Girona aye? Looks good but it that photo looks alot like it’s got Melbourne weather in that sky. I dunno?

  • avagoodone

    I was in Barthalona last year with a friend just after le tour, and there is a place in fair Girona that rents semi decent cannondales.. the brit that works there slings you a map and you can go do the 60km armstrong/hincapie ride for about 25 euros.. train costs about 15 from barce.. it was one of the best days of my trip! the route is great.. long straight descents, windy mild ascents..
    If youve got some runners and shorts.. do it (I had all my gear sans bike, but my mate didnt).

    We saw some amazing places and things.. like an antonia banderas tribute equine trainer with flowing locks chasing a pearl white phillie in a dry catalunyan paddock like something out of gladiator.. was hilarious. would definitely do it again. climbs arent any steeper than the 1 in 20. however, in the words of kramer.. it was like a sauna in there

  • SLH

    Whatever conjecture or speculation surrounds Armstrong, it is undeniable that the livestrong organisation has dumped a massive amount of funds in to the vast arena of cancer research and treatment. The indiscriminate an universal penetration of this disease is undeniable, and 1/3 of us who have posted on this forum today will be affected.
    Regardless of whether this allows Armstrong to appease his guilt, or is a genuine act of a well meaning human being is debatable. The result is undeniable.

  • http://pulse.yahoo.com/_H3DFVQUS3JD6QC2PAX65T24WTI Rodney

    Nice article.

  • Anonymous

    Only bikes on Beach road should be registered. Someone else’s turn.

  • Anonymous

    Only bikes on Beach road should be registered. Someone else’s turn.

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  • MarcusO

    Another feature of Girona is that its nice and close to those kindly Spanish doctors who hang onto blood for your pet dog. Musta been a bit of a drive for Dr. Ferrari though…

  • pmark1bike

    MAMILs!!

  • Arishmitchell

    Question : say you were me and had 6 months to go anywhere in the world to cycle and do a bit of racing where would you go and when ?

    I’m thinking Boulder Colorado ??

  • jules

    you don’t need a doctor for that.. you just put it in your own fridge! what can go wrong?

  • Notso Swift

    It is nicer, because even though it lacks the Duomo and Uffizi there are less Gypsy’s!

  • Shoot goal

    (Apologies for grammer errors im sneaking this post in from work)

    Yes it must be acknowledged that the Livestrong organisation has donated money to cancer research thats brilliant and worthy. The ‘hate’ comes from I think many areas.

    1. The bandwagoner effect ie the surge in cycling numbers has seen many newbies adopt the trimmings of the peleton without respect – I mean how many polka dot jerseys and world champions are riding beach road today! And since the one rider anyone new seems to know is Lance – its distaste by association I reckon…

    2. Lance from some perspectives certainly ‘snubbed’ the Spring Classics to focus instead on the Tour, whilst others did not – this is a sore point for many if he or his supporters are claiming Lance to be the greatest

    3. The whole Livestrong message implies that its by force of will that he acheived his remarkable victories which sticks in the craw if you believe he was on the gear.

    Lance to an extent is caught in a trap as he received US Federal Gov money (US Postal) and would be in breach of several Laws if found guilty or if he admitted drug use…

  • Five-55

    “for many, the greatest cyclist ever”

    I guess the “many” referred to by the author would be people who have never heard of Eddy Merckx??

  • Anonymous

    MAMILs should be registered….because they can afford to pay :D

  • stu

    only a matter of time before you eat your words Cheerup!

  • stu

    Livestrong = Smokescreen……your spot on SLH…..a good way to appease ones guilt….well said!

  • http://twitter.com/DMGorton Dave Gorton

    Greatest cyclist ever? Utter bollocks. Good article otherwise.

  • LorenzanaLady

    @Arishmitchell; Belgium/Holland – Oudenaarde/Maastricht area.

  • Anonymous

    Merckx admitted to doping when he was riding, and EVERYONE thinks he is a God. It is just a matter of time and perspective. Even if he was on the juice, you cannot deny the impact he has had on developing OUR sport, and the money that he has raised in support of Cancer.

    I recently read an article by someone close to Lance. He basically (no he didn’t say Lance was on the juice) said that perceptions will change from “He’s a Cheat if he Doped”, to “Was it acceptable at the time, due to the widespread usage”. Either way, I bet that if 99.9% of the population doped and trained, they STILL would not be able to touch what Lance had achieved.

  • jules

    that’s true, but in Merckx’s day, most doping products were snake oil that had little impact on performance and a lot of stuff wasn’t even banned at that point in time. i think it was Moser who set the hour record in 1984 by openly and legally blood doping. high levels of EPO reportedly gives you a 10-20% improvement in performance (whatever that translate to in time/power) – you can’t compete against that if you’re clean. Cadel (assuming he’s clean) would have been mid-pack against Mr 60% and the like back in the 90s.

  • shoot goal

    nope – the difference is Merckx etc fessed up. Lance is not able to when clearly all the circumstantial evidence alledges he was on the gear….

  • Gitmo

    I’m not sure why you say I’m a hater, I certainly don’t hate the man.

    I don’t like what he has done to cycling though and so I will exercise my right to ignore an article that tries to portray him as something he’s not. That’s half the reason this went on for so long in the first place, fan boys, riders (not all) and journalists turning the other way when they knew something was up. The ends didn’t justify the means.

    If he admitted all tomorrow I wouldn’t have a bad word to say about him.

  • Andersatan

    No. Quick flight from Italy. I drove the car to pick him up!

  • Andersatan

    FWIW there were several pros who lived in that great little city long before Uniball and Bridesmaid Hincapie did. The writers in the cycling world really should consider not tagging every story about cycling with the tainted legacy of LA. Furthermore, it diminishes the value of a very special and historical city.
    I had the great pleasure of living in Girona, of course. It’s a great place to ride on quiet roads alongside accommodating Spanish drivers. The people are absolutely lovely. The local culture and food are the best in all of Spain in my opinion.
    The mtb tracks up the Els Angels hill are also very good.

  • Anonymous

    Wes Sulzberger, Goss, Hushovd are also based in Monaco I believe

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